🌡️ The Exact Temperatures
Leopard geckos need a thermal gradient — a warm end to digest food and a cool end to cool down. Here are the four numbers that matter, and the cheap tool that verifies each one:
| Measurement | Target | Check With |
|---|---|---|
| Warm-side floor surface | 90–95°F (32–35°C) | Infrared thermometer (temp gun) |
| Cool-side ambient | 75–80°F (24–27°C) | Digital thermometer on the cool wall |
| Night temperature | Down to 68°F (20°C) is safe | No heat needed in most rooms |
| Humid hide | 70–80% humidity inside | Damp substrate, not a misted tank |
🔧 What Type of Thermostat?
Two families dominate the hobby, and both keep your gecko safe — they just work differently:
- On/off thermostats switch the mat fully on until the probe hits the target, then fully off. Simple and cheap; the surface temperature gently waves a few degrees around your setting.
- Pulse proportional & dimming thermostats feed the mat just enough power to hold the target steady. More precise, quieter on the electronics, and the better pick if you might upgrade to a deep heat projector later.